Stucco vs. Hardisiding

[Antisthenes]

while there are many IFC systems
there is also tilt up wall systems with sandwiched EPS

i would like to see about 12 systems put to the test in some sort of real world benchmark.

in a presentation i saw it in infrared images with a excellent energy performance 70% does sound like allot(doors and windows) i have ready numbers more like 40% with these new mass/insulation wall system technologies.

foam takes stucco well from my experiece w/o stucco netting like a EIFS system.

good luck with that architect

[StuccoLady]

The Portland Cement Association website has basic information regarding stucco, siding, ICF and other cement-based applications; go to www.cement/org. For specific information regarding cement siding including a chart of relative prices for stucco and other materials, go to www.cement.org/homes/brief15.asp Also check out www.stocorp.com for specific information on cladding systems. Is your project going to be in conformance with LEED? go to www.usgbc.org for information about Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design rating systems and specifications. All these sites have a lot of good information and links for the prospective home owner/builder

[orchid_3d]

could you guys give me some comments on this renderings? www.- spam -.com

[mx2]

It doesn't look like stucco.

mx2.5

[StuccoLady]

Quite a few homeowners I have talked to really dislike the look of the hardiboards, and wished their contractors had gone stucco (or in some cases, anything but hardiboard!) We have seen many problems with hardiboard, stemming from improper installation, and doubt that any warrantee for hardiboard will be honored in a claim. They should have gone stucco

[StuccoLady]

Neither design nor architecture & certainly not on subject

[RFS]

I don't know why people constantly say Hardiboard or hardiplanks or whatever is better than stucco when they are two different beast altogether.

[evelyns]

This is a tiny bit off-topic (and my first post here!), but I wanted to chime in on the ICF energy savings. We will be building in a few years and have started doing some pretty intense research to figure out what we want, and IIRC, the 70% energy savings figure was quoted in a Quad-Lock video as what you could achieve if you installed their other recommended systems as well. I'm not 100% sure what those are, but I imagine they include some solar power as well as choosing the most energy-efficient appliances, heating units, etc. Otherwise it's something like 20-30%. We plan to be as efficient as practically possible when the time comes and so hopefully will have more return, but even 20-30% is nothing to sneeze at, IMO.

For the record, yes, we have chosen to go with ICF. Its other benefits including strength, durability, longevity, sound insulation, and no mold or infestation problems have sold us.

Okay, now back on topic: If your architect is thinking about those stucco look panels, yes, they are less expensive, but just be aware that historically there are rot issues because they don't allow the wood substrate to breathe, though supposedly those issues are being addressed with newer methods. Also, personally, I think the seams are ugly and the finish feels unsubstantial. However, I am not a design professional, just a potential homeowner who has looked at a jillion houses and house plans lately and is starting to really clarify what I like/don't like, so YMMV on that. In other words, you should take what I say about design with a grain of salt because it's just my opinion. Apparently from the number of new houses around here with the stucco-look panels, a lot of people disagree with me.

[Madimel]

The products that we've used are Rastra and E-Crete in the Southwest. Both came out to be about 20-25% more than CMU. Another draw back with those two systems is that you have to predetermine which wall will carry any heavy artwork. Depending on the overall look, you may end up with furring the interior wall for added thickness, thus defeating the use of the product anyway.

[pelldeb]

I'm in South Florida and have a two-story, wood-frame home that I'm about to do some renos on. I've been getting bids for stucco and hardie board and some conflicting advice from the contractors. For example, in the Stucco vs Hardieboard debate, I've been warned that the caulking on Hardie board won't last in this climate, and that the stucco on a house like mine would not hold up over time because the underlying wood would expand/contract and flex.
Does this sound right? Are there merits to these points?
So, now I'm looking at vinyl siding instead to replace all the rotted cedar and other wood siding before I upgrade windows and add storm shutters.
Oh yes, it's a 2200 SF home on two levels, and the bids so far are coming in at $27-33K.
Until I found this forum, I had no idea of the different types of stucco or associated problems, so at least I feel I have better questions to ask when I speak to the contractors next. But the other issue I wonder about is how you verify quality of work in an area where few contractors have been around a significant amount of time. Anyway, thoughts or input are appreciated. Thanks!

[nanrehvasconez]

pelldeb:

Like anything else, each material has to be properly installed and used in conjuction with the architecture of the building and tle climate of the area.

I have used successfuly hardiboard in a very large warehouse with a very modern architecture, we applied the hardiboard in 48x48" squares, mounted in cold formed steel channels to obtain the look that we required, we textured the hardiboard with an elastomeric paint with ganular fillers to show a sand texture, the building was completed in 2000, today it look like new.

If you use stucco, usually applied in three coats, over stucco wire mesh, the wood frame indeed expands and contracts with the temperature, but an experience applicator will put expantion joints to eliminate the cracking of the finish product. Omega Stucco products have additives to eliminate cracking.

In SoCal stucco is the prefered material .

In the norhwest, Oregon and Washington clapboard siding is prefered. If you could afford wester cedar, it will be best, hardiboard or equal, in shingles and/or clapboard will last forever. Good, premium vynill siding carries a good warranty, but has had many complaints.